Orange County NC Website
PLO-W sh,aWC 4� <br />Biological Control of Aphids <br />in the Greenhouse <br />North Carolina has many different spe- <br />cies of aphids, and life cycles and host <br />plants vary among species. The green <br />peach aphid is probably the worst pest for greenhouse <br />growers because of its wide host range, broad distribution, <br />ability to vector viral diseases, and difficulty of control. <br />Aphids tend to be very communal and often congregate in <br />groups on the tender parts of plants, preferring new growth <br />shoots and tips and the undersides of leaves. <br />Aphids penetrate plant cells and remove sap with their <br />sharp, straw -like proboscis, The sap is used for energy and <br />then excreted as a sugary, sticky fecal substance called hon- <br />eydew. Black sooty mold fungus will often grow opportu- <br />nistically on top of the honeydew. Other symptoms of aphid <br />infestation include distorted new growth, yellow spots or <br />mottling on upper leaf surfaces, curling leaves, and cast <br />skins on leaves. The presence of ants in the greenhouse can <br />also tip you off to an aphid problem. Ants love to feed on <br />honeydew and will protect aphid colonies from predators <br />and parasites so that they can harvest the sugary goo and <br />take it back to their nest. Ants will even "herd" aphids from <br />plant to plant! Ain't nature great? <br />One of the main reasons aphids are such notorious pests is <br />because populations have a tendency to explode. This is <br />because aphids have the ability to reproduce sexually and <br />asexually. Most aphids are females in the south. These fe- <br />males do not have to mate in order to reproduce, and they <br />often produce live young rather than eggs. Many genera- <br />tions are produced each year. <br />Adult green peach aphids pass the winter in North Carolina <br />on greens and weeds (other species may overwinter in the <br />egg stage). In a greenhouse, asexually reproducing aphids <br />can be present year- round. Both winged and wingless forms <br />may be present, Winged <br />aphids often appear when the <br />J communal living situation <br />ITT becomes overcrowded — some <br />aphids will develop wings so <br />they can fly off in search of a <br />new host plant. <br />Detecting an aphid infestation early, or acting before they <br />even show up, is the key to successful control. Early detec- <br />tion requires proper scouting. Scouting should be performed <br />at regular, timed intervals — once a week (twice a week in <br />the summer), on the same day, at the same time, Record <br />your observations so that you will be able to detect any pos- <br />sible trends. Look especially carefully at plants prone to <br />aphid problems, and at plant parts like the undersides of <br />leaves, buds, or tender new growth. Watch for honeydew <br />and cast aphid skins shed by the developing aphids as they <br />molt through their juvenile stages. Avoid moving infested <br />plants to new areas adjacent to susceptible plants. Flag loca- <br />Page 2 <br />tions where you find aphid populations so you can monitor <br />them, <br />There are several biological control options for greenhouse <br />aphid pests, including green lacewings (Chrysoperla carnea, C. <br />rufflabris, Chrysopa spp.), aphid midges (Aphidoletes aphidi- <br />myza), parasitic wasps (Aphidius colemani and Aphidius matri- <br />cariae), and lady beetles (Hippodamia convergens). <br />The larval form of the green lacewing is a voracious t <br />consumer of aphids and other soft- bodied pests such <br />as scales, mealybugs, and whiteflies. Lacewing lar- <br />vae, often called aphidlions, have flattened bodies <br />that resemble tiny alligators. Eggs or larvae can be <br />released, depending on how quickly control is <br />needed. Adults are sometimes released into orchards <br />to penetrate upper tree canopies, Lacewing larvae <br />are slow to disperse but quick to find and consume <br />prey after their release. <br />The predaceous larvae of the mosquito - <br />like aphid midge (Aphidoletes) are best <br />used for controlling substantial popula- <br />tions of aphids, The adult females lay <br />their eggs in the middle of aphid colo- <br />nies. The eggs hatch into orange larvae <br />that kill aphids by injecting a toxin and <br />then consuming them. If released into <br />high infestations, Aphidoletes larvae tend <br />to kill much more than they eat. This makes them capable of <br />handling heavy pest pressure. <br />Aphidius is a parasitic mini -wasp best used <br />for preventing the establishment of aphids. <br />These parasitoids can also tackle minor to <br />medium infestations. If they become es- <br />tablished they can provide protection <br />throughout the season, except perhaps in <br />late summer. The wasp lays its eggs in the <br />abdomens of aphids. The larvae then <br />hatches and consumes the aphid from the <br />inside, eventually pupating inside the <br />aphid "mummy ". Look for the telltale exit <br />holes in aphid mummies to determine if <br />Aphidius is doing its job. <br />The convergent lady beetle is another vo- <br />racious predator of aphids and other pests. <br />Both larvae and adults are predaceous. <br />,Lgdy beetles are flighty, but if you water <br />the site before releasing and release in the <br />evening you will encourage them to stick <br />around and earn their keep, Even when <br />released properly, however, 90 -95% will <br />Ely away (release rates should take <br />this into account). But it's the 5- <br />10% that stick around that do the <br />job. Synthetic food sources such as <br />BiodietThl (a honeydew substitute) <br />are available to help keep lady bee- <br />26 <br />